Another tip on cutting the blank might be to take it to your local archery shop and have them cut it with itheir arrow chop saw that is designed to cut through carbon arrows.
Just a thought.
I imagine they wouldn't charge much if anything.
How to shorten a rear grip..
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- Location: Bradenton
Do you think a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel would be about the same as a jewelers file? Providing you don't apply too much pressure while cutting? My cutoff wheels are pretty fine grained.Phnd wrote:That was a good post about shortening grips. Its necessary for fishing from a kayak to have a shorter grip and many of us need it but I think your leading many people astray by suggesting the use of a hack-saw to cut their rod. That's the worst thing to use on fiberous material. It will tear the fibers apart weakening the blank. You may get away with it on the outside of the blank by wrapping it in tape before making the cut but it will undoubtedly tear the fibers apart on the inside. I realize cutting the end of a butt is not going to be damaging since the cork handle reinforces the blank but sooner or later someone will want to make a cut on the main shaft and ruin it because they tried it on the butt section and had no ill effects.
A weakened blank will egg shape under pressure and ultimately collapse and break.
The proper way to cut a rod is by using a fine file. The finer the better. Jewelers files would be best but not necessary. Simply turn the file on its edge and start slowly cutting while turning the blank until you get through. Allow the file to do the work not cutting to deep on any one stroke. When using the right amount of pressure the rod material will turn to dust. If excess pressure is applied by trying to cut to deep the fibers will splinter weakening the blank.
It takes no more time and less effort to use a file rather than a saw. Protect your investment and use a file.
Rick
That is what I use now instead of the hacksaw.VARick wrote:Do you think a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel would be about the same as a jewelers file? Providing you don't apply too much pressure while cutting? My cutoff wheels are pretty fine grained.Phnd wrote:That was a good post about shortening grips. Its necessary for fishing from a kayak to have a shorter grip and many of us need it but I think your leading many people astray by suggesting the use of a hack-saw to cut their rod. That's the worst thing to use on fiberous material. It will tear the fibers apart weakening the blank. You may get away with it on the outside of the blank by wrapping it in tape before making the cut but it will undoubtedly tear the fibers apart on the inside. I realize cutting the end of a butt is not going to be damaging since the cork handle reinforces the blank but sooner or later someone will want to make a cut on the main shaft and ruin it because they tried it on the butt section and had no ill effects.
A weakened blank will egg shape under pressure and ultimately collapse and break.
The proper way to cut a rod is by using a fine file. The finer the better. Jewelers files would be best but not necessary. Simply turn the file on its edge and start slowly cutting while turning the blank until you get through. Allow the file to do the work not cutting to deep on any one stroke. When using the right amount of pressure the rod material will turn to dust. If excess pressure is applied by trying to cut to deep the fibers will splinter weakening the blank.
It takes no more time and less effort to use a file rather than a saw. Protect your investment and use a file.
Rick
"whose that little motherf***er with the fly rod"