Wright & McGill S Curve Rods.
Wright & McGill S Curve Rods.
Anybody own these and have a opinion of them good or bad? Thinking of trying one out myself. Thanx
Get Bent!!
Re: Wright & McGill S Curve Rods.
Nothing new ... other than the marketing. It is a composite rod (glass and carbon). Do yourself a favor and go buy a Shimano Teramar Inshore instead. TMSF70M (popping style), TMSX70M (spin/jig style) or TMS76ML (open water).
Fuji reel seat, Fuji Alconite guides and Quality cork grips ... nice fit and finish as well.
TJ -
Fuji reel seat, Fuji Alconite guides and Quality cork grips ... nice fit and finish as well.
TJ -
Re: Wright & McGill S Curve Rods.
So, how'd it perform when you tried it?TampaJim wrote:Nothing new ... other than the marketing. It is a composite rod (glass and carbon). Do yourself a favor and go buy a Shimano Teramar Inshore instead. TMSF70M (popping style), TMSX70M (spin/jig style) or TMS76ML (open water).
Fuji reel seat, Fuji Alconite guides and Quality cork grips ... nice fit and finish as well.
TJ -
Jerry White
Contributing author for Paddling.net since 2005
Contributing author for Florida Sportsman Magazine
Member - Florida Outdoor Writers Association
Contributing author for Paddling.net since 2005
Contributing author for Florida Sportsman Magazine
Member - Florida Outdoor Writers Association
Re: Wright & McGill S Curve Rods.
Have a 7 ft which I like it for the weight balance. With the right reel it balances out very well and makes a day of chucking DOAs a lot easier on the arm.
Didn't buy the hype that the blue color provides camouflage against a blue sky. A nice rod overall
Didn't buy the hype that the blue color provides camouflage against a blue sky. A nice rod overall
All you need is ignorance and confidence and the success is sure.
Re: Wright & McGill S Curve Rods.
Where do you put the 3ft of rear grip while your sitting in the yak? Every W & M rod Ive seen has a surf casting like grip Id just have to amputate a foot or two of.
Re: Wright & McGill S Curve Rods.
The rear grip is not that long on the new rods.0119 wrote:Where do you put the 3ft of rear grip while your sitting in the KAYAK? Every W & M rod Ive seen has a surf casting like grip Id just have to amputate a foot or two of.
BTW, just so we are all on the same page, we are discussing the "flats blue" Blair Wiggins signature series.
I have a couple of the rods (7'6" & 7'9") and think they are nice stick for $100. I've caught everything from dink trout to 100+lb sharks. I prefer to use bigger baits with them but you can just as well work a 1/8oz jig. I like the palm grip and as previously mentioned, they have good balance. Sure, the rods are a marketing tool for the tv show but it is also a real working product unlike a lot of other junk I have seen hosts put their name on to make a buck.
And before any of ya say anything about my friendships and/or affiliations, I had to pay full retail for my W&M rods, too.
Paddles - they aren't just for the bedroom anymore.
~Mark~
~Mark~
Re: Wright & McGill S Curve Rods.
c'mon Mark. I'm gonna call you on that, buddy. A rod that throws bigger baits does not throw 1/8 ounce jigs "just as well". Sure, you can use it to throw big and small but it throws one or the other much better.CooKnFish wrote:I prefer to use bigger baits with them but you can just as well work a 1/8oz jig.
We should all be buying rods for specific use. A rod that works a topwater well just isn't the best rod for 1/8 jigs. Since we all go out with 2 or 3 rods, we should be buying 2 or 3 rods with different actions. You don't need near as much 'feel' in a topwater or hard bait rod as you do on a rod used for plastic jigs (or my favorite the bucktail jig).
With what is out there, buy rods for specific purposes. I usually carry three rods. One is a topwater rod (an 8' rod that got tip broke down to 7'7"), one is a spoon rod (an 8' rod that throws them a mile) and the other is a jig rod (a 7'6" medium action St Croix) Three very different rods.
I'm sure that W&M rod is very good in one of those slots but I am sure it is not good in all of those slots.
Over every mountain there is a path, although it may not be seen from the valley
Re: Wright & McGill S Curve Rods.
good call Rik. I also believe in having dif rods for dif occasions/baits.
Re: Wright & McGill S Curve Rods.
You can just as well work a smaller bait, not work a smaller bait just as well.Rik wrote:c'mon Mark. I'm gonna call you on that, buddy. A rod that throws bigger baits does not throw 1/8 ounce jigs "just as well". Sure, you can use it to throw big and small but it throws one or the other much better.CooKnFish wrote:I prefer to use bigger baits with them but you can just as well work a 1/8oz jig.
The rod really is a decent all purpose, do all rod. I don't expect you to agree that there is such a thing but think back to a time before you knew any different. I totally agree with you about tailoring your equipment to the lures you throw. In fact, that is exactly what my seminar is about April 7th. You coming, Rik? I'll let you cast my W&M.
Paddles - they aren't just for the bedroom anymore.
~Mark~
~Mark~
Re: Wright & McGill S Curve Rods.
I take different rods (length, power, action) whenever possible. IF it isn't, I opt for a "compromise" rod - the typical 7'0", Medium Power (8-17#), Moderate-Fast Action. A great example is the G Loomis P844 - an inshore popping rod.
A 6'0" or 6'6" medium-heavy (10-20#) fast action rod is MUCH better for working mangroves and docks. Short enough to be deadly accurate at skipping, strong enough to put the pressure on them to pull them out and fast enough to give high accuracy.
A 7'6" or 8'0" medium-light (6-12#) moderate rod is MUCH better for working open water. Long enough to make far reaching casts, light enough to be more pleasurable to cast and to provide greater sensitivity, slow enough to offer a gentle "lob" effect to cast baits/lures and to allow a softer "giving" fight to ensure more fish to the boat.
There is NO such thing as a perfect multi-use rod. For the same reason, golfers carry an entire bag of clubs. Different tools for different situations.
TJ -
A 6'0" or 6'6" medium-heavy (10-20#) fast action rod is MUCH better for working mangroves and docks. Short enough to be deadly accurate at skipping, strong enough to put the pressure on them to pull them out and fast enough to give high accuracy.
A 7'6" or 8'0" medium-light (6-12#) moderate rod is MUCH better for working open water. Long enough to make far reaching casts, light enough to be more pleasurable to cast and to provide greater sensitivity, slow enough to offer a gentle "lob" effect to cast baits/lures and to allow a softer "giving" fight to ensure more fish to the boat.
There is NO such thing as a perfect multi-use rod. For the same reason, golfers carry an entire bag of clubs. Different tools for different situations.
TJ -
Re: Wright & McGill S Curve Rods.
Mark,
When and where is your seminar?
When and where is your seminar?
“You don’t ever want a crisis to go to waste....” — Rahm Emanuel
"Freedom!" - Sir William Wallace
Who is John Galt?
"Freedom!" - Sir William Wallace
Who is John Galt?
Re: Wright & McGill S Curve Rods.
http://paddle-fishing-forum.com/viewtop ... =5&t=34441" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
The seminar is at Little Harbor in Ruskin on April 7th @ 7pm.
The seminar is at Little Harbor in Ruskin on April 7th @ 7pm.
Paddles - they aren't just for the bedroom anymore.
~Mark~
~Mark~
Re: Wright & McGill S Curve Rods.
What time is the limo picking me up?
Over every mountain there is a path, although it may not be seen from the valley